How To
Belay From Above
Climbing Essentials
How To
Belay From Above
Climbing Essentials
A belaying technique used for climbing multiple pitches and for where belaying at the bottom of a route isn't possible.
The Redirected Belay
A problematic approach.
How To: Attach a belay device directly to your harness, redirect the climber’s end of the rope through the master-point of an anchor above, & down to the climber below.
The Problem: If a climber falls the belayer can easily be pulled up towards the anchor which could compromise the belayer’s ability to hold the climber during a fall. This belay setup is difficult to escape & a falling climber creates a 2-to-1 force on the anchor’s master-point.
The Direct Belay
1.) Attach a locking carabiner to the metal loop on the ATC, then clip & lock it to the anchor’s masterpoint.
2.) Shove a loop of climbing rope through the ATC (climber’s end towards the back of the ATC just like normally belaying with an ATC).
3.) Clip & lock another locking carabiner through the climbing rope loop & the device’s cable below the device.
4.) Pull down on the climbing end of the rope to confirm it is rigged correctly. The climber’s end of the rope will auto-lock (auto-block) when it is loaded by a falling climber.
5.) To begin belaying, pull up on the climber’s end of the rope with one hand & pull down on the belayer’s end with the other hand. As a safety measure, always keep a hand on the belay side of the rope.
- Watch our “How To” video.
- Check out some ATC devices.
Pros
1.) The belayer is not part of the belay system making it easy to escape the belay & provides more comfort to the belayer.
2.) The climber is protected by the auto-locking system even if the belayer lets go of the belay side of the climbing rope.
3.) This system makes it easy to belay two climbers at the same time.
4.) A falling climber creates a 1-to-1 force on the anchor’s master-point.
Cons
1.) Lowering a climber is somewhat difficult.
2.) The system requires additional locking carabiners & an ATC with a guide mode loop.
1.) Attach the device to the climbing rope (climber’s end towards the back on the device).
2.) Clip a locking carabiner to the device, then clip & lock it to the anchor’s masterpoint.
3.) Pull down on the climber’s end of the rope to confirm the device auto-locks.
4.) To begin belaying, pull up on the climber’s end of the rope with one hand & pull down on the belayer’s end with the other hand. As a safety measure, always keep a hand on the belay side of the rope.
- Check out some Assisted-Braking Devices.
Pros (in addition to the “Pros” for using an ATC)
1.) The system is easy to build & take down.
2.) Only one locking carabiner is required for this setup.
3.) Lowering a climber is very easy to do.
Cons
1.) GriGri devices are much heavier & more expensive than ATCs.
2.) You can only belay one climber up at a time.
ATC Devices
Safety First
Anchors: Always use two or more solid anchors for a masterpoint. For more anchoring information check out this article on anchors from The American Alpine Club.
Double Check On Your Own: You’re likely alone at the top of a pitch. Double check that knots are correct, carabiners are locked, ropes aren’t compromised, & devices are set properly before use.
Climbing Is Dangerous: Online knowledge is great but nothing beats hands on instructions & experience. Use this information wisely & practice climbing techniques in a safe place before using them at the crag. Failure to follow proper safety measures can lead to serious injury or death. If you’re having trouble, contact us & we can direct you to professionals who can help teach you proper climbing techniques.